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Stories from Helsinki, Finland

Every story, long read and guide in the ULTIMATE Helsinki City Guide, in one place.

Areas

Helsinki by neighbourhood

From the Esplanadi to Kalasatama, each area has its own guide: the Design District, Amos Rex, Senate Square, the Rock Church, Kallio’s saunas and the sea fortress of Suomenlinna.

Summer in the Esplanadi Park, by the Runeberg statueNeighbourhood guideKaartinkaupunki & Design DistrictThe Esplanadi and design shopsThe curved timber Kamppi Chapel on NarinkkatoriNeighbourhood guideKamppi & PunavuoriBulevardi and Amos RexThe painted cupola and gilded chandelier inside Uspenski CathedralNeighbourhood guideKruununhaka & KatajanokkaSenate Square and UspenskiLight falling through the ring of windows inside Temppeliaukio ChurchNeighbourhood guideTöölöThe Rock Church and the bayKallio Church above the Art Nouveau blocks of KallioNeighbourhood guideKallioMarket hall, sauna and bars

By the sea

Suomenlinna in the morning, Senate Square and the Esplanadi at lunch, and Temppeliaukio and Oodi in the afternoon.

  1. Neighbourhood guideEira & UllanlinnaVillas and the shore
  2. Neighbourhood guideSuomenlinnaThe UNESCO sea fortress
  3. Neighbourhood guideJätkäsaariBy the West Harbour
  4. Neighbourhood guideKalasatamaTowers and the new bridge

History

History & heritage

How a Swedish trading town of 1550 became a sea fortress, the capital of a Russian grand duchy and, since 1917, the design-minded capital of independent Finland.

Helsinki Cathedral above Senate SquareHistory & heritageA Swedish town of 1550, a grand duchy’s capital and the home of Finnish designSweden, Russia and a Finnish capital by the seaThe South Harbour, with Helsinki Cathedral rising above the waterfrontThe back storyHelsinki by the seaTake the morning ferry to Suomenlinna and come back for the harbour…The domed square above Amos Rex, beside the Lasipalatsi towerThe back storyHelsinki Art, Architecture & CultureHelsinki’s architects work with what the north gives them: low winter…

Our advice

Two centuries in an afternoon

Take the public ferry to Suomenlinna in the morning, return for a salmon soup at the Old Market Hall, then walk from Senate Square to the Central Station and on to Oodi. History & heritage

Practical

Plan your trip

The practical things to know before you go: entry and money, the airport train, HSL and the ferries, and a classic first day.

The wooden-ceilinged departure hall at Helsinki AirportBefore you goHelsinki essentialsEntry, money and getting aroundHelsinki Central Railway Station and its granite lantern-bearersGetting aroundGetting aroundThe airport train, HSL and ferriesHelsinki Cathedral at the top of its steps on Senate SquareItineraryA classic first dayThe essential Helsinki
  1. Luxury guideLuxury HelsinkiThe finest addresses

Day trips

Beyond Helsinki

An old town on a river, a national park, a medieval capital across the water, a castle and the islands.

Porvoo’s red riverside storehousesBeyond HelsinkiPorvooRed storehouses and an old townA forest lake in Nuuksio National ParkBeyond HelsinkiNuuksio National ParkForest lakes and HaltiaThe towers and red roofs of Tallinn’s Old TownBeyond HelsinkiTallinn by ferryA UNESCO Old TownTurku CastleBeyond HelsinkiTurkuThe castle and the riverThe channel between Suomenlinna and VallisaariBeyond HelsinkiThe archipelagoIslands by boat and footbridge
  1. Beyond HelsinkiLapland at ChristmasFather Christmas, reindeer and snow hotels

In depth

In depth: Helsinki, from the sea fortress to Aalto

The grand hotels, the sea, the sauna, how to eat and where to buy: the stories behind Helsinki, from two MICHELIN stars to the market hall.

Christmas market stalls on Senate Square in the blue hourSenate SquareChristmas in HelsinkiThe market, Christmas Street and LuciaA barnacle goose grazing a lawn in HelsinkiIn depth: nature & wildlifeWild HelsinkiGeese, bay birds and flying squirrelsThree elves waving from a gingerbread window at SantaParkChristmas in LaplandChristmas in LaplandFather Christmas, elves and sleighs

The sauna

One evening at Löyly for the sea, one morning at Kotiharju for the tradition.

  1. The back storyThe grand hotelsKämp to the Waldorf Astoria
  2. The back storyThe Finnish saunaHow to sauna in Helsinki

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